Spanish Cheeses with Mat Schuster of Canela
At Canela, a San Francisco based Spanish restaurant, owner Mat Schuster has pivoted in many ways since the pandemic, including a retail focus on Spanish cheese. Says Schuster, “When people think of Spain they think of a few things. For cheese, they think Manchego but probably 90% of Americans don’t grasp how many Spanish cheeses there are. Spain is not a huge country but every region has very distinct products.”
Cheese has always been on the menu at Canela and Schuster, along with his partner who is Spanish head to Spain regularly to explore and seek out products including cheese with visits to restaurants, shops, and cheesemakers. “Whenever we go I look for the obscure things,” says Schuster adding, “just like in California, there are so many small artisan producers that don’t make it here, it’s the same with Spanish ham. We get maybe 10 in the US but there are hundreds there. If we like something, we see if we can get it.”
On the Canela menu, Schuster features Spanish cheeses in 2 different ways, in recipes but also on cheese plates, because, says Schuster, “Some cheeses you want people to try on their own because they shine the most that way.” He uses cheese inside dates wrapped in bacon, stuffed in piquillo peppers, smeared, and stacked with slices of zucchini and pepper on toast. He also uses cheese on coca, a Spanish flatbread, and in salads, often to give a Spanish twist to an American classic like a Caesar or steakhouse-style wedge salad.
Retail has become an important component of his business since the pandemic and one he plans to continue with after the crisis subsides. Not only does he sell cheese in a happy hour kit and a cheese and wine experience, but he also sells a dozen Spanish cheeses by the pound at the restaurant and via the restaurant website.
Canela recently hosted a virtual Spanish cheese tasting and included a booklet on the cheese of Spain provided by the Foods and Wines of Spain. Here are some highlights:
"Cheesy dots and stripes" by BeaLeiderman is licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 2.0
A sheep’s milk cheese aged from 1-14 months but typically 3 months or more and comes from the La Mancha region. It has a thatched rind reminiscent of traditional straw covering. It is mild, somewhat dry but gets denser and more grainy with age and pairs particularly well with quince paste and marcona almonds
Says Schuster “This is one of the cheeses that I’m most comfortable with changing up because there are so many versions. Right now the manchego is a great cheese for recipes. It’s readily available and very versatile and most Queso Manchego coming from Spain are going to be good.
"Caña de Cabra at Krog Bar" by Foodie Buddha is licensed under CC BY-NC 2.0
A goat’s milk cheese from Murcia with a bloomy rind. It’s young, a month or so old, as it ages it remains chalky in the center. It’s tart, tangy, good with jamon on a baguette sandwich.
Says Schuster “In the Basque country, they like to use this style of cheese. It’s special because it allows us to play with a traditional French style goat log cheese but it’s a Spanish cheese. It’s a customer favorite, recognizable but different.”
"Queso Rey Silo (afuega'l pitu)" by Silverman68 is licensed under CC BY 2.0
A cow’s milk cheese from the Asturias—a region that has 200 kinds of cheese. It is flavored with pimenton, Spanish paprika.
Says Schuster “It’s a cheese that we discovered on a trip to Asturias and we went to a cheesemaker up the hills. Many Americans haven’t even heard of the region. It’s got a strong flavor with Spanish paprika so it doesn’t get paired with much. It’s so distinct that we don’t want it to overpower anything else. Its crumbly texture is unusual and it can be a real standout.”
"Queso Arzua Ulloa" by formalfallacy @ Dublin (Victor) is licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 2.0
A young, cow’s milk cheese from Galicia. It’s 6 days aged, sweet, and a bit grassy.
Says Schuster “I found it at the Fancy Food Show in January. We had been looking for this style, the rind reminds me of fondant, it’s chewy and tender. It’s creamy. It’s soft and tangy. It’s all about the texture.”
"Queso Arzua Ulloa" by formalfallacy @ Dublin (Victor) is licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 2.0
A sheep milk cheese from Extramadura that is bathed in a salt brine. It’s made with thistle rennet and is very stinky, gooey.
Says Schuster “There are several examples of this kind of cheese, well-known in Spain. It’s a premium cheese and it’s a bit like some of the French cheeses. It’s unique to most people who taste it. It’s more complex and has a lot of different notes that you won’t find in other Spanish cheeses. It’s one of the softest and funky.”
"Valdeon" by ulterior epicure is licensed under CC BY-NC-ND 2.0
A blue sheep and goat milk cheese from Leon. It has a bit of crunch, and is very pungent and sharp.
Says Schuster “We always want to include blue cheese, and people who like it, like it a lot. It’s polarizing because it’s so strong. It’s fun in recipes because it’s so distinct we use it in a wedge salad.”