Why You’ll Love Beaufort AOP
Slice of Beaufort AOP
Beaufort AOP is a revered fromage hailing from the French Alps in Savoie. It is a raw cow’s milk, cooked, pressed beast of a cheese that boasts complex aromatics, an unfolding of intense flavors on the palate, and a lingering finish. If ever a cheese could taste like a full-course meal, Beaufort is it.
History of Beaufort
Cows of Beaufort" by prakharamba is licensed under CC BY-NC-ND 2.0
Beaufort was originally produced by monks in the 14th century as a means of sustaining themselves during the winter months by preserving milk while it was abundant in the summer. Beaufort comes from a small herd of cattle, the Tarine and Abondance breeds, that languorously graze in mountain pastures. There they consume wild grasses, flowers, herbs, alliums, and whatever else thrives on the mountainside. Cudding on such flora translates into an array of aromas and flavors that are ultimately expressed in the cheese.
Beaufort received its place/name status on April 4, 1968. AOP protection ensures that, by law, each wheel that is produced is consistent with its historical make and aging procedures, and it guarantees quality as well as the expression of its signature flavor and textural characteristics. It is made with raw, whole milk, and the cheese can only come from the Beaufortain, Tarentaise, and Val d’Arly valleys where rainfall is abundant, and the soil is nutrient-rich. According to Beaufort’s AOP regulations, these bovines must be grass-fed only with hay as a basic ration. Silage is forbidden, and supplementation is limited and monitored.
Making Beaufort
Production occurs every day, either each time the milk is drawn or once per day. Mixing in milk from the previous day is prohibited. While the ruminants dine in higher elevations, production commences in chalets, small huts that are situated on the side of the mountain, where meticulous care is taken to create the highest quality cheese possible. As soon as the cows are milked, cheesemaking begins. In traditional copper cauldrons, the milk is heated to 91.4 degrees F and veal rennet is introduced to encourage coagulation. Once the curd is formed, it is cut into small grains, which helps to eliminate a lot of moisture. It is then heated to 127-131 degrees F and stirred constantly. Pressing occurs in a beechwood hoop that holds the cheese together while it forms and creates Beaufort’s signature concave shape. Pressing lasts 20 hours, and it is turned regularly to ensure that knitting and fermentation are happening evenly. After 24 hours of resting, the cheese is submerged in a brine bath, which is its first salting—this staves off unwanted microbial growth and promotes the development of the rind.
Beafort aging, photo credit depositphotos
Aging of beaufort lasts at least five months in caves that are 50 degrees F with high humidity. During such time, the cheese is salted, rubbed, turned, and flipped twice per week. It is said that beaufort is at its best between the ages of 7-12 months, but we all have our own discerning palates, so it behooves one to make that decision for oneself.
Types of Beaufort
Beaufort d’été AOP
Beaufort d’alpage AOP
Beaufort d’hiver
Beaufort cows in the Alps photo credit Fromage Beaufort
There are three types of beaufort: Beaufort d’été AOP, Beaufort d’alpage AOP, and beaufort d’hiver.
Beaufort d’été is known as Summer Beaufort. In June, the cows begin their transhumant journey in the valleys where vegetation is fresh and lively, and they continue to higher elevation as they graze; this genre of Beaufort is also produced later in the summer as they have ventured back down the mountains, finishing in September. D’ete tends to be on the sweeter, fruity, floral side with wafts of fresh nuts and sweet grasses.
Beaufort d’alpage comes from higher elevation pastures that have had more time to flourish in the summer sun. This is the fromage that is produced in chalets.
D’alpage trends on the savory side. It can show sulfuric, scrambled eggy, oniony, umami qualities with roasted nuts, a maillard-ish nuance, and tends to have a skosh more complexity than the other types of Beaufort.
Beaufort d’hiver is the lesser-known version that is produced during the winter when the animals are munching on dry hay that was collected from the mountains during the summer. This is the only type of beaufort that does not enjoy AOP status, and it is practically impossible to find (if at all) in the U.S. Production of this cheese is fairly limited.
This cheese has a tremendous amount of gustatory depth. Besides being a flavor bomb with a satisfying chew, it makes for a great pairing partner with red wines that possess phenolic complexity—such wines are not as easily coupled with cheese as one might think. Beaufort can be enjoyed with an assortment of suds, ciders, regional quaffs, cherry liqueur, and even coffee if you are into a mouthful of nutty, toasty-toastiness. And it melts like a dream to boot! There are only 17 producers of this special cheese, visit the Beaufort AOP site to learn where you can visit the dairy cooperatives producing it.