Pairing Cheese & Sparking Wine
Whether it’s the festive sight of tiny bubbles cascading up the curve of an elegant wine flute or the way it gently tickles the nose and stimulates the appetite, sparkling wines have something for just about everyone to like. A big part of the allure is the air of celebration it brings. The distinctive pop of the cork and the fizz that follows often means something fun is beginning, and that might actually be part of the problem. These wines are so strongly associated with occasions and conviviality, they are often overlooked for their ability to pair seamlessly with food, especially cheese.
Sparkling wines begin the same way non-carbonated versions do, by fermenting the sugars in grape juice into alcohol. Once that is complete, however, they undergo an additional step to infuse the wine with bubbles. This carbonation is primarily achieved by one of two methods. The most popular is the traditional method, known formally as the méthode traditionnelle. If that doesn’t ring a bell, maybe the original name will - méthode Champeniose. Originally named for the world’s most recognizable sparkling wines, this method involves adding a small amount of sugar and yeast to the fermented wine and sealing it in a bottle, a process called tirage. The carbonation created by this second fermentation is trapped, infusing the wine with bubbles. Champagne and Cava are made this way.
The second most common way to create sparkling wine is the Charmat method. Best known for making Italian Prosecco and Lambrusco, it is also called the ‘tank method’. The big difference between the two methods is the omission of individual bottles when adding bubbles. The Charmat method brings together the fermented still wine with the yeast and sugar in a large tank. The resulting carbonation pressurizes the tank while infusing bubbles into the wine, which is then piped into bottles under pressure. This process yields wines that sometimes seem ‘fresher’ than their traditional counterparts. While this method isn’t quite as revered as the older method, it certainly is used to make some fantastic wines.
Whichever wine you choose, there are lots of cheeses that are perfect accompaniments to your glass of bubbles. Here are five sparkling wine and cheese combinations for your next fizzy pairing adventure.
Crémant
Sparkling wines made outside the region of Champagne are not allowed to use the famous moniker. Even though they may be made in the same method, geography prevents them from leveraging Champagne’s recognition. Made elsewhere in France, these wines tend to be a little softer than their famous cousins and are approachable and extremely food-friendly for a fraction of the cost.
Crémants are energetic and lively. Blanc de blanc versions (those made only with Chardonnay) show notes of citrus and minerals, with flavors of stone fruits like apricots and green apple. Blends have more power and structure, with aromas of blackberry and red fruits.
These wines love cheeses with soft textures and complex flavors that allow the wine’s youthful pep to shine. Try a French double-créme cheese such as Chaource. The cakey interior and slightly savory notes of mushroom and cream pair beautifully with the wine’s energy. For a truly indulgent combination, pick a triple-créme like Brillat Savarin. The cheese’s higher fat content coats the palate with milky, salty layers of richness, a perfect foil for the texture and acidity of the wine.
Prosecco
Quickly becoming a worldwide favorite for its easy-drinking nature and reasonable cost, Prosecco has a lot going for it. Known locally in its Italian home region of the Veneto as “gioia scintillante” - sparkling joy - these wines are unpretentious and quite flavorful. Made from the Glera grape they can range from dry to sweet, although most versions found in the United State tend to be dry.
Aromas of Meyer lemon and pears are common, often accompanied by bright notes of grapefruit and apple. Because it is made in the Charmat method, Prosecco tends to have softer bubbles and less-dry flavors, making it a fantastic choice for an aperitif.
Prosecco is a versatile wine for cheeses, being equally adept at matching rich and creamy cheeses as well as those with more aging and a saltier profile. Opulent cheeses like the northern Italian Robiola Bosina lays down a soft carpet of grassy, milky sweetness the wine’s bubbles are happy to cut through. For a more intense combination, reach for the king. Parmigiano Reggiano has a salty, assertive character that softens the wine with each sip. Try to find a younger-aged version, as they often show fruitier tones that accent the wine’s similar flavors.
Recommendation:
Gold Melbourne IWC 2019 Prosecco DOC/DOCG Riunite Prosecco NV Treviso DOC
Cava
Once called “Spanish Champagne” because it is made the same way, Cava is at the backbone of Catalan cuisine culture. They can be made from several different grapes, but most come from a combination of local Xarel-Lo, Macabeo, and Parellada grapes. Even though it’s made the same way as Champagne, it is a decidedly different experience to drink. Unlike the angular qualities of its French counterpart, Cava usually has softer edges and an engaging flavor profile of apple, nuts, flowers, and sometimes hints of herbs. Aromas of lemon, pear, and melon keep things buoyant and uplifting sip after sip.
Cava pairs well with cheeses that show off the wine’s zesty characteristics, especially firmer cheeses with fruity flavors. Try a younger Gruyère AOP with a handful of dried apricots to really make the fruit tones of the wine punch out. For a regional pairing, taste the famous Catalan goat cheese garrotxa with a few slices of chilled pear. The tangy flavors of goat milk match the wine’s liveliness.
Recommendation:
Double Gold NYIWC 2019 Spain, Cava DO Brut Gran Campo Viejo NV Brut
Champagne
You can’t consider sparkling wine and cheese combinations and not include Champagne. It still remains one of the most popular sparkling wines in the world, and with good reason. Made from only three possible grapes - Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier - Champagne is still the standard-bearer for elegant, sophisticated bottles bearing the region’s famous name.
What to expect when you open a bottle depends on what wine is inside. Versions made exclusively from Chardonnay grapes, called Blanc de blancs, will come across as a little bit lighter, emphasizing lemon and apple flavors. The all-Pinot Noir Blanc de noirs wines will have more body and fleshiness. Look for notes of strawberry and raspberry. Most bottles you encounter will be a cuvée, or blend, of all three grapes. Bringing together each grape’s characteristics, these wines often have aromas and flavors of apple, brioche, marzipan, and berries, although it can vary depending on the particular producer’s blend.
The classic cheese pairing with Champagne is Langres. Hailing from the same region, these small cylinders of cow milk cheese are supple and yielding, and almost sweet on the tongue. Aromas of mushroom, warm bread, and fresh cream lock on to the wine’s similar notes for a truly exquisite pairing. A small indentation on the top of each wheel, called a fontaine, was even designed so you can pour a bit of Champagne in it, letting the liquid seep into the cheese. Talk about a match made in Heaven.
Recommendations:
Gold NYIWC 2019 Champagne AOC, Brut, .5 – 1.2% rs Champagne Collet Brut Double Gold NYIWC 2019 Champagne AOC, Brut, .5 – 1.2% residual sugar (rs) Champagne Collet– Cogevi 2008 Brut Vintage 2008 Melbourne IWC 2019 Brut Traditional Varieties, .51 – 1.5% rs Champagne Collet Esprit Collet NV
Lambrusco
Most people think Lambrusco is a cheap fruit bomb that had its moment somewhere around 1975. While there was a time when Italy exported low-quality versions to our shores, earning the ire of wine drinkers countrywide, that time has passed. Versions that much better align with what Lambrusco can truly be are easier to find than ever before, and they warrant consideration when pairing with cheese. The name “Lambrusco” translates from Italian to mean ‘wild grape’. These wines can be made from up to sixty different varietals, and every single one of them wants to party. These wines can range from dry to sweet but are nearly always carbonated, which only adds to the enjoyment.
Bright red in the glass, aromas of cherry, strawberry, and raspberry come through loud and clear. The feel of the wine is different from the others on this list. A unique fermentation and carbonation technique gives Lambrusco gentler bubbles, which the Italians call “frizzante”, meaning “frizzy”. The typically lower alcohol level and friendly disposition make this wine a perfect choice for brunches and social events where casual sipping is desired.
This wine screams for cheese with higher fat content and creamy texture. Triple-créme cheeses fit the bill perfectly. The French delicacy Délice de Bourgogne has all the smooth, milky flavor and creamy texture you need, bringing the wine’s gentle fizz to the forefront of the combination. For a truly outstanding combination, combine fresh ricotta with chilled berries and a drizzle of honey. The wine’s slight sweetness combines with the sugars in the honey and berries for a mouthfeel that is so, so pleasing. The cheese’s bright, lactic freshness is a superb contrast to the body of the wine.
Collection Privée Gold NYIWC 2019 Brut, .5 – 1.5 % rs Domus Vini SRL CA Delle Rose 2019 Imperiale Gold