8 Essential Los Angeles Area Cheesemakers You Should Know
Los Angeles County is known for many things, but wide-open space isn’t one of them. Given that fact, there isn’t much room for farm animals to graze, roam and provide milk. Despite that reality, enterprising companies still manage to make cheese, many for decades, often drawing on family traditions. Learn about 8 local cheesemakers that have made impacts.
Angelo & Franco
Southern Italian natives Angelo Tartaglia and Franco Russo, aka “The Mozzarella Guys,” started making cheese locally in 2009 in a facility near Hawthorne Municipal Airport and innovative tech companies like SpaceX. Mozzarella is the main event, though they also make scamorza, creamy ricotta, burrata and bocconcini (mozzarella balls). Angelo & Franco cheeses are available in Costco, Whole Foods, Vons, Albertsons and Pavilions. They also distribute to restaurants from L.A. to San Diego.
Ariza Cheese Co.
One of Southern California’s most established cheesemakers debuted in 1970. Longtime employees Pablo Gonzáles, Jorge Barillas, José Luis Gómez, and Jesús Pérez purchased the company in 2015 and continue to produce time-tested cheeses in Paramount. Offerings include requesón (Latin “ricotta”), queso Salvadoreño (with or without loroco flowers) and crumbly cotija: triangles, spicy enchilado or molido (grated). Ariza cheese is available at markets like Food 4 Less, Superior Grocers, and El Super. Buy larger boxes directly through Ariza Cheese by calling 562-630-4144.
Cacique
The de Cardenas family emigrated from Cuba to Los Angeles in 1971. Gilbert and Jennie opened their first cheese facility in 1973 in Lakewood, and the business moved around Southern California as they grew. Traditionally, a cacique is a local chief in pre-Columbian tribes, including Mapuche and Taíno. Cacique started with queso fresco which was sold store by store throughout the Los Angeles area. Today son Gil de Cardenas carries on the family legacy, and Cacique has grown to become the #1 brand of Hispanic cheeses, creams, yogurts, chorizos and salsas in the United States. Currently based in Monrovia they make some Italian and primarily Mexican cheeses in nearby City of Industry, including asadero, cotija, Manchego, and panela, plus shredded cheeses.
Di Stefano Cheese
Puglia-born cheesemaker Mimmo Bruno debuted Di Stefano Cheese in Pomona in 1993, naming the business for his father and oldest son. He and his family faithfully produce Italian cow’s milk cheeses at their facility, including creamy burrata (classic or truffle). Over the years, they’ve also added mascarpone, ricotta, and many different forms of mozzarella, most recently logs, sliced logs, and pizzarella. Di Stefano cheese is available through stores like Whole Foods, Gelson’s, and Eataly. They also recently debuted an online store that ships orders nationwide and to select islands.
Gioia Cheese Co.
Third generation cheesemaker Vito Girardi carries on his family’s Apulian culinary traditions, which include fresh Italian cow’s milk cheeses like burrata (cream-filled mozzarella) and burricotti (ricotta filled mozzarella). This South El Monte company debuted in 1993 and also makes mozzarella, ricotta, scamorza (plain or smoked), mascarpone, and cacciocavallo (mild Provolone). Gioia doesn’t offer any online sales, but opens their doors to customers on Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and Friday. Girardi also sells cheese at Bristol Farms markets and mom-and-pops like Milkfarm in Eagle Rock, Bay Cities Italian Deli in Santa Monica, and Monte Carlo Italian Deli in Burbank.
Karoun Dairies
In 1992, Anto Baghdassarian started Karoun Dairies with a small Hollywood storefront that produced Armenian-style braised string cheese. Parmalat purchased Karoun Dairies in 2017, but the family remains heavily involved. Anto’s son Rostom Baghdassarian expanded his father’s vision to include Eastern European, Indian, Latin, and Mediterranean culinary traditions under brand names like Arz, Queso Del Valle, Gopi and Yanni. Karoun keeps a San Fernando headquarters and makes cheese up north in a state-of-the-art Turlock facility. Super King carries a wide variety of Karoun Dairies products, including Ackawi (mild whole milk cheese), assorted Fetas (made with cow’s, goat’s and sheep’s milk), paneer (firm Indian-style cheese that’s often the lead protein) and Touma (an ancient cheese that promises “the taste of springtime”). Local markets like Jons, Vons and Ralph’s also carry assorted cheeses, as do indie shops like Odessa Grocery in West Hollywood and Aliki’s Greek Taverna near LAX.
Los Altos Foods
The Andrade family’s second generation carries on Mexican cheesemaking traditions at their freeway friendly facility in the City of Industry. Raul and Gloria Andrade began their local business in 1988 with queso fresco and crèma and later added cheeses like Menonita (semi-soft Menonite-style cheese from northern Mexico), panela (plain or with jalapeño) and Manchego. Alin Andrade is currently the company’s COO and Corin Andrade is CFO. Pick up cheese from their creamery or buy Los Altos products at popular markets like Vallarta, El Super and Jons.
Sierra Cheese
This family cheese manufacturer has been in business since 1955 when brothers Chuck and Sam Inga started producing Italian cheeses in Paramount using family recipes from Sicily, which father Sylvestro provided. They moved to nearby Compton in 1957, when South L.A. was still full of dairies. Current owner Charlene Franco (Chuck’s daughter) joined the family business in 1996. Sierra Cheese continues to offer classic Italian-style cow’s milk cheeses like pasta filata-style mozzarella, scamorza, and ricotta, plus Armenian-style string cheese. About a decade back Sierra Cheese added Latin-style cheeses like requesón, aged cotija, and queso Oaxaca. Sierra Cheese primarily supplies Southern California Italian delis and restaurants, including Italia Deli & Bakery in Agoura Hills, Domingo’s Italian Deli in Encino, and Mario’s Italian Deli in Glendale.