Meet the Judges: Emilio Mignucci

Editor’s note: This year marks the launch of the first annual New York International Cheese Competition It’s unique in that it is judged only by importers, distributors, cheesemongers, retailers, or restaurant owners.

Emilio Mignucci is a third-generation owner of Di Bruno Bros. and serves as the Vice President of Culinary Pioneering. He is also Vice-Chair of the board of the Specialty Food Association.

What was your first cheese job? 

Growing up we were always in the family store and I was brought up working there part-time, even as a kid. Then I went to culinary school and cooked until my grandparents were ready to retire. They were going to sell the store and we decided to take it over back in 1989-90. 

Did you always know you’d be involved in the family business? 

No, back then succession planning wasn’t a thing. I was surrounded by it and but we had no idea we were going to take over the family business. I really enjoyed food growing up, not just the family Italian market but I was walking past other markets to get to school.

What drew you to cheese? 

I grew up snacking on it, eating fast food wasn’t typical, if we wanted a snack we ate fresh fruit, or vegetables and cheese. It was normal for us. I grew up snacking on Parmigiano Reggiano, or provolone or Swiss Emmental. We always had cheese in the house, it was always around. 

What do you love most about working in the industry?

For me, it’s about the people. Coming up in the 90s, learning about the American Cheese Society (ACS) made me realize there are more than just big companies behind cheese. There are artisan farmers and cheesemakers and I started to highlight the people associated with the cheeses we sold and celebrate it in that way. For me, it’s working with the people who make a difference in the food chain. Watching the makers grow. Every culture revolves around the dining room or kitchen table, there’s always food involved. 

Growing up there were Irish and Middle Eastern neighborhoods too, and we would hang around our friend’s kitchens enjoying each other’s mother’s cooking. Food is culture. It helps me to understand their culture. 

What advice would you give to someone just starting out in the cheese business?

Taste a lot of cheese, be open to trying everything. Get a job at a cheese counter. Be exposed to the European traditional cheeses as well as new American styles. Start there to gain some knowledge, then there are so many different avenues to pursue. 

What’s the best way to learn about cheese in addition to “behind the counter?”

Connect with the ACS.  Go to the conference, learn as much as you can, meet people at conference and learn from them. Visit cheesemakers, within an hour or two from almost anywhere you can find someone making cheese so call them up and hang out with them. There’s so much to learn. 

What’s your favorite cheese to bring to an event and why?

When I go to a party, people expect something that’s going to wow them. I focus on seasonality. So in spring it’s goat’s milk cheeses that are fresh and lactic or a young pecorino. Growing up in a strong Italian culture eating seasonally came naturally—we ate tomatoes in the summer and fall, apples in their season. 

How do you like to serve cheese?

When it comes to serving I like to keep it simple, I always do odd numbers, 1 or 3 cheeses, not more than 5. I want to see the form so I serve it in a chunk not all cut up, I mix up textures and different milks, and focus on pairings that highlight the subtle notes. For example, Brabander goat gouda I pair with simple cocoa pecans, that pulls the chocolate notes out of the cheese and people can notice it and are impressed with the flavor. 

What cheese is always in your fridge?

Parmigiano Reggiano aged 3 years by Giorgio Cravero. Colston Basset Stilton, we probably go through a pound half a week! Also provolone, a sharp one, when paired with sopressata it speaks to my soul. It’s my comfort. Another one is Comté. Cheesemongers love alpine cheeses due to their diversity and complexity. Every wheel is different.

What’s one of your favorite or favorite recent cheese pairings?

In spring I really love to make bresaola with arugula and sea salt, lemon oil and Leonora, a Spanish goat cheese coated in pimenton. I love that combo. We eat a lot of that sometimes we’ll use a young pecorino like a Marzolino that is coming in soon.

What do you enjoy most about judging cheese competitions?    

Being exposed to so many cheeses at one time. Trying something new, seeing what’s going on in the industry and seeing how new cheesemakers are coming along. 

What cheese destination (country, region, dairy, etc.) would you most like to visit next? 

I’m kind of hoping that the Slow Food event happens this fall, I do enjoy that and it takes place in the small Medieval town of Bra. But where I’d really like to next is Japan. They have great terroir and are doing really interesting things with cheese. 

Where is the most unusual or memorable place you have gone to learn about or taste cheese? 

One of my favorites is taking a trip to Switzerland to see how a family makes alpage gruyere in the alps with no electricity in 3 chalets. They make just 2 wheels a day and I got to see it. It was eye-opening to me. We were touching the clouds, it was really unbelievable. I took a ton of pictures.