Remembering Master Cheesemaker Charley Malkassian

Editor’s note: Contributor Sheana Davis shared with us that Charley Malkassian had passed away, and we appreciate her quickly pulling together this tribute. Our condolences to all who knew him.

Charley Malkassian

Charley Malkassian

I’m very sad to report that master cheesemaker Charley Malkassian passed away unexpectedly, in Sonoma last week at his home. Malkassian, was an award-winning cheesemaker who worked with the legendary Ig Vella and the cheesemaking team at Vella Cheese  starting in 1980 and eventually became Vella Cheese Company’s head cheesemaker. In 1994 and 1995, he was awarded Best of Class at the Wisconsin Cheesemakers Association for Vella Cheese Company Dry Monterey Jack Cheese, and at the 1995 U.S. Championship Cheese Contest, he won the Best in Class. He was the only cheesemaker to have worked with four generations of the Vella family and was deeply involved in developing new cheeses until his retirement in 2020. 

Malkassian had recently married and was enjoying time with family and friends. He loved live music of all genres and was one of Sonoma’s biggest supporters of live music.  Many musicians in Sonoma appreciated his attendance at the live music shows, including Tuesday night Farmers Markets on the Sonoma Plaza. He was described by those who knew him best as modest and supportive, and in his retirement had taken on new skills and hobbies including Japanese woodcraft.

Personally speaking, when I entered the cheese business, Charley always made time either with Ig Vella or on his own to answer any questions I had. He was very helpful to me as I grew into my career making cheese. He always greeted our guests with a smile and gentlemanly handshake, and I cannot remember how many cheesemakers we would take to visit him just to say hello. I will miss seeing Charley at live music shows around town. I will miss seeing him happily married and enjoying retirement with friends, his children and grandchildren.  

Cheesemonger and author Gordon Edgar  shared, "Charley was one of the first cheesemakers I met after becoming a buyer. It took about five minutes to realize that we had been at some of the same punk shows in Sonoma County in the '80s and '90s. I never felt so welcomed to the cheese community because I realized I wasn't the only cheese punk! Every time I ran into him, I was inspired by his passion and humor.  He will be missed tremendously.” His friend Jason Sinclair echoed Edgar’s sentiments on Facebook commenting, “So sad to hear a lifelong family friend passed today. All the great times will be remembered especially the time you let me borrow your Sex Pistols record and my mom and dad were pissed…You were one of the good ones. RIP my friend.”

Ari Weinzweig of Zingerman’s summed things up nicely, “If Ig trusted Charley to make the cheese, then he must have been both an awesome human being and an excellent cheese maker!”

Donations may be made in Charley Malkassian’s name to The Phoenix Theatre.

The Phoenix Theatre located in Petaluma is home to live music shows, youth music programs, activities and services.  

NewsSheana Davis