Why the Greek Isle of Naxos is a Cheese Lover’s Paradise

The island of Naxos, the largest of the Cyclades islands in Greece, is composed of rocky ridges, dry brush, and a multitude of fearless goats and sheep that dominate the roads and terrain. These milk-producing animals, along with the island’s other 5,000 cows, have given rise to its cheese-laden fame and overall culinary acclaim.

Naxos cheese proudly graces every menu on the island, and restaurants serve varying styles of the local cheese in multiple forms: battered and fried squeaky blocks with lemon or honey, enormous piles of creamy fresh styles over tomatoes and bread (the Cretan dish called Dakos), or thick salty wedges atop a Greek-style salad.

Traditionally in Naxos, cheese was only something made in homes and exchanged between neighbors for other goods; many families on the island had their own animals for production. Specifically in the Koufopoulos family, cheesemaking has been in the family for generations. Irene Koufopoulos, who runs Emanuel V. Koufopoulos Traiditional Dairy, says cheesemaking has been in her family for four generations. Her grandfather was the first to sell cheese for a living, and it was her father, Emmanuel Vas. Koufopoulos, who decided to turn it into a proper dairy in 1990. Today, the entire family including Irene’s mother and sister, make 25 different varieties of cheese and are one of the most respected cheesemakers on Naxos.

There are all sorts of cheeses to try out on this island, particularly if you head to the Koufopoulos shop for a tasting. Here are a few to look for:

Graviera

Though not one of the original cheeses of Naxos, it’s probably the most famous. The variety was developed in 1914 to mimic Gruyere cheese. According to Irene, the best Graviera is made in Naxos and Crete, using cow or sheep’s milk respectively. You’ll find it in various states of aging and in creative renditions; a specific type of Graviera from 80% cows milk and aged 72 days can fall under a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO). At Koufopoulos Naxos they offer one smoked with local herbs, as well as other flavors like truffle or peppercorn.

Mitzithra

A sweet whey cheese, Mitzithra is made with cow’s milk and is composed of 20% milk and 80% whey. Mitzithra is commonly consumed fresh, particularly on top of bread and salads. Yet cheesemakers also found ways to preserve it by putting the mounds in baskets— with salt on the top and bottom— and letting it slowly dry out. They then remove the baskets, add more salt, and continue the process until they achieve a desirable texture. The cheese continues to release moisture, lose some of its sour qualities, and harden.

Xinomyzithra

Xinomyzithra cheese is similar to Mitzithra but it is far more acidic; ‘xino’ means sour in Greek. It is made with goat, sheep, and cow’s milk and was traditionally produced in the summertime, where the heat would drive up the acidity and also prevent it from hardening up, leaving it soft, like fresh Italian ricotta. The hardened version of Xinomyzithra is known as Xinotyro or Xinotiri, though there are varying levels of softness and hardness depending on how long it sits in the salt and baskets. A goat’s milk version is also available, coated in sesame seeds.

Arseniko

This style of cheese dates back 400 years and is made with both goat and cow’s milk. “Arseniko” means male in Greek, which, according to Irene, is because “it was the first cheese to be made in the morning and would take all the energy from the milk, and was the strongest of all.” Though she’s not a fan of the misogynist nature of the name, she continues to honor the tradition.

The outside of the aged cheese was originally covered in olive oil preservation, where dark mold and dirt would begin to cake the outside and leave a black coating. For health reasons, they now simply use a black wax to mimic the characteristic color.

Thilikotiri photo credit Tyrokomia-Naxou

Thylikatori

Also a traditional style of Naxos cheese, thylikatori is made from the whey of arseniko cheese. In another effort to prevent waste, cheesemakers would boil the whey at extremely high temperatures (60 degrees Cº or 140 Fº) and add a bit of fresh milk into the mix. This would create a light foam, which was soft and sweet. Because of its softer and delicate characteristics, they named it thylikatori, which means female.

The cheese starts off fresh like a ricotta and is then set in baskets for 24 hours, or as long as the cheesemaker desires. There it will harden and solidify but maintain its creamy texture. The result is so incredibly creamy that Irene’s father changed the name of the cheese to “galatero,” which means milky. He also plays around with this style of cheese, adding fresh ingredients like plums, sun-dried tomatoes, or leeks.

If you’re cheese hunting in Greece, definitely make a stop at Emanuel V. Koufopoulos. They have locations in downtown Naxos and Athens.