Grana Padano: A “Grainy” Cheese with a Grand History
Photo credit Consorzio Tutela Grana Padano
It’s impossible to consider the ancient culinary traditions of northern Italy’s Po Valley and not include cheese. Few regions in the world can boast the number of cheeses produced within the area. From Lombardy’s Gorgonzola and Taleggio to the world-famous Parmigiano-Reggiano made in Emilia-Romagna, the Po Valley is nearly unrivaled in historically important cheeses as well.
Just outside the crowded metropolis of Milan, the landscape changes drastically. Bustling streets give way to pastoral landscapes and a quiet pace of life that belies its proximity to the city center. Within the Parco Agricolo Sud Milano is the historic Abbey of Santa Maria di Rovegnano, a modest Cistercian monastery known as one of Italy’s first examples of gothic architecture. It’s also the home of one of the world’s most significant cheeses, Grana Padano. First produced in the 12th century, Grana Padano was created to preserve surplus cow milk. The abbey’s monks had transformed their marshy lands into a working dairy farm, resulting in more animals making more milk. Rather than let it go to waste, they developed a hard cheese meant for aging. The result was a product that rivals the region’s far more famous dairy product, Parmigiano-Reggiano.
Made from unpasteurized, semi-skimmed cow milk Grana Padano is classified as a ‘grana’-style cheese. The name ‘grana’ means ‘grain’ in Italian, referring to the granular curd structure used when making the wheels. It is only one of two grana-style PDO (Protected Designation of Origin, an EU-granted certification) cheeses in the country, along with Parmigiano-Reggiano. While these two venerable cheeses share some similarities, they certainly stand their own ground in many ways. To better understand the distinctions, I turned to an expert on the subject.
Photo credit Consorzio Tutela Grana Padano
Chef Andrew Carmellini is well-versed in the production and utility of Grana Padano. As the owner of several restaurants around New York City, including Bar Primi, Locanda Verde, and Lafayette, few people are more intimately familiar with this superb cheese. “Grana Padano and Parmigiano-Reggiano are produced in two different areas of northern Italy,” he comments. “They are both high-quality cheeses which must comply with severe production rules and undergo strict quality tests.” The differences between them start with the feed eaten by the cows and is further established by each cheese’s skimming requirements. “Grana Padano cows eat fresh forage but also corn silage, making the milk sweeter. Grana Padano’s intense and distinctive flavor when aged is never overpowering or bitter. Parmigiano Reggiano cows are mostly fed fresh forage,” Carmellini points out. “Grana Padano is made with partially skimmed milk while Parmigiano Reggiano is made with one part of whole milk and one of partially skimmed milk,” he says. “Therefore, Grana Padano has a slightly less fat content which makes it mature more quickly and can be sold, once fire-branded at 9 months of age, whilst Parmigiano must wait until 12 months.”
Like Parmigiano-Reggiano, Grana Padano can be found in a variety of ages, starting at 9-16 months. Once it has aged past that stage, it is referred to as Grana Padano Oltre 16 mesi. At 20 months of aging, it is sold as Riserva cheese. Just over 5 million wheels of Grana Padano were made last year, using up nearly 24% of all the milk produced in Italy. Approximately 2 million of those wheels are exported, with 155,000 making their way to the United States. With more chefs and cheesemongers extolling the rich, savory flavor and culinary versatility, that number is anticipated to grow.
Grana Padano’s aromas and flavors make it an excellent partner for a wide range of wines. Young wheels typically emphasize aromas of milk and cream which pair beautifully with the flowery, light characteristics of chilled Prosecco. The savory hay notes of the 16-month wheels call for red wines with fresh red berry tones and easier tannins - younger Chianti is a great choice. The bolder tones of Riserva wheels need a wine with structure and depth. Amarone della Valpolicella is rich and round, with deep berry flavors that compliment the cheese’s saltiness and focus. Chianti Classico will also bring out the best in the more aged wheels.
Photo credit Consorzio Tutela Grana Padano
Because Parmigiano Reggiano has been marketed as “the King of Cheese”, you might think Grana Padano is somehow a lesser cheese. Despite its lower price, there is nothing inferior about it, in fact, Grana Padano’s versatility makes it a natural choice for a wide range of culinary uses beyond simply being a nutritious, lactose-free choice on a cheese platter. The less-salty flavor makes it a great substitute for Parmigiano Reggiano in many recipes, a consideration appreciated by chefs and home cooks. Chef Carmellini offers insight into some of his favorite ideas. “I love Grana Padano served on its own or as an appetizer in small chunks with olives and nuts. It is also perfect to grate over risotto, pasta or soup. I love steamed vegetables—green beans, broccoli, whatever you like—with grated Grana Padano mixed with breadcrumbs and a little olive oil.”
From its humble beginnings in a monastery to today’s place among the world’s favorite cheeses, Grana Padano continues to delight cheese lovers and inspire chefs.