Cheese Shops We Love: Formaggio Kitchen
Location
In the Essex Market, 88 Essex St, New York, NY 10002
Focusing on Smaller Producers, But in a Bigger Space
When Formaggio Kitchen New York first opened in 2006, the store was located in the former Essex Street Market in Lower Manhattan and was much smaller. Andrew Clark, the General Manager of Formaggio Kitchen New York, says regardless of the size, they made it work. It gave off an old-world market feel that complemented the old tradition of cheese making nicely. “One of the things we loved about the old market was how tight and cramped it was,” says Clark. “It gave it a lot of character.”
Three years ago, Formaggio Kitchen settled into its current space at the new Essex Market with a much bigger, airier layout which works well when it comes to showing off the goods. “We can do so much more with this space than in the old market,” says Clark. “Before we had to choose maybe just one type of cheese or style. Now we can get five kinds of cheeses per style.”
While the location may have changed, the mission behind Formaggio Kitchen has always stayed the same: to provide first-class cheeses produced by families from around the world. “With every trip, we make personal connections and relationships with small producers,” says Clark. “A lot of our favorite cheeses we import directly to our Cambridge location, and then distribute those cheeses to our other three shops in Boston, Kendall Square, and here.”
But people don’t just come for the cheese, although that’s a big part. Customers come for the friendly service and the good conversation too. “I love it when people stay and talk and hang out,” says Clark. “That's the best.”
The Store
Formaggio Kitchen New York is located on the street level of Essex Market. The 225-square foot shop has a 12-foot cheese case displaying roughly 50 different cheeses from around the world for customers to sample and purchase at their leisure. “The goal is to have our favorites of every aged cheese tradition and style,” says Clark. “For lots of variation throughout the year.”
Near the front of the store, you’ll find one section designated to a wide variety of olive oils while in the back, there’s a cold section dedicated to olives. Many other accompaniments are located throughout the store too, such as jam, pasta, and potato chips, all coming from various small global producers.
Top-Selling Cheeses
Parmigiano Reggiano, Cravero San Pietro photo courtesy Formaggio Kitchen
This aged cow’s milk cheese from the Cravero family in San Piero, Italy is the most popular cheese in the shop, and for good reason. “It’s made by one producer,” says Clark. “And we directly import it to the states.” From a family who has been aging cheese since the 1850s, this Parmigiano Reggiano has an easy balance of flavor with a hint of nuttiness.
Brebis Pardou photo courtesy Formaggio Kitchen
This rare French sheep’s milk cheese is made with milk from brebis béarnaise, a particular type of sheep breed found in Spain’s Basque country. It’s what Clark calls, “a little bit extra aged” and done so while inside an old train tunnel. “This is to mimic the natural cave environment with cool temperatures and high humidity,” says Clark. The result is smooth but bold.
Grey Owl
This goat’s milk cheese comes from a small dairy farm called Fromagerie le Detour, in Quebec. A gorgeous ash-ripened goat's milk cheese is both soft and creamy with a sharp flavor. “It pays homage to the traditional Loire Valley cheese Selles-sur-Cher,” says Clark. “It is our favorite North American cheese of its style.”
Also Look For
Formaggio Kitchen New York also has a six-foot curved charcuterie section. Customers can choose from mortadella pork and rosemary ham, along with various housemade pates, which include rabbit and chicken liver, among others.