A Way with Curds: Cheese Carver Sarah Nep
When life hands you a 40-lb block of raw milk cheddar, make art. Those are words to live by for cheese carver Sarah Nep.
The first step on Nep’s path toward becoming a professional cheese carver was, as one might expect, “almost by accident.” Which isn’t to say she found herself one day casually shredding cheddar for nachos and ended up instead with a replica of David. Nep’s educational background is in fine art, with a particular focus on sculpture, and in 1982 her husband encouraged her—or, in her words, “volunteered” her—to carve a cow out of a block of cheese for a display at the California Cheese and Butter Show, an event for which he was involved in the organization. (They are still married, and Nep is still carving.)
“It was a little scary,” says Nep, “knowing the value of the block of cheese, but it worked! It came out like a little fat calf.”
The cheese sculpture was such a hit that Nep was next invited to participate in a cheese carving contest sponsored by the Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board with a group of chefs. “I was the only woman and not a chef,” she says. “They were pretty surprised when I won. I didn’t think it would last but I’ve been carving cheese ever since!”
I met Nep during an event sponsored by Real California Milk where I was myself presented with a large block of cheese and a set of small tools you might otherwise guess belong in a manicure kit. I came away with a passable—and edible—cheese guitar, but more so I came away with an extreme appreciation for what Nep is able to accomplish with her given medium, using a process of reductive sculpture to remove cheese from the block to reveal the art within. Recently she shared with me some insights and an inside look at her unique corner of the dairy industry.
Do you sketch designs before you begin, or do you start carving and see what evolves?
Now I do a lot of research and sketches but there are times when things evolve in ways you never expect. You need to have a vision of what will work with the cheese you have but stay flexible and open to the flow of the artwork. One time I was doing a standing Frankenstein at Halloween at a market in Newport Beach, when I realized I didn't have room to fit it into the block and abruptly switched to making him sit in an overstuffed chair. it all worked out but it was a little scary in the middle of an event! (Sometimes Nep is contracted to provide a finished sculpture, and sometimes there’s an audience for the carving itself!)
Who typically hires you for cheese carving?
My clients are typically involved in the food business or connected to cheese—events like trade shows, fairs, and grand openings. Lately I have been doing more work for wineries. Occasionally I get requests from individuals celebrating birthdays or weddings. (Strong hint for anyone whose friends or family are certified cheese nuts.)
Three Little Pigs, photo courtesy of Sarah Nep
Where do you source your cheese from?
I've carved cheeses from all over the world. Many of my clients provide the cheese but I also have a variety of manufactures and brokers I work with to get the 40-lb and larger blocks. Henning’s Cheese in Wisconsin produces a wide variety of sizes and shapes.
What's the most outrageous cheese design you've ever been asked for?
You can carve almost anything out of cheese. Once I did a 5-foot carving of the Coit Tower out of 14 Parmesan wheels for the California Milk Advisory Board. We got some good media coverage but it was a challenge to move. Another time, I was asked to carve radio personality Don Bleu out of blue cheese—I wasn’t sure that would be a good look for a bust so I did it out of Monterey Jack.
Sarah Nep cheese carving photo credit: Pamela Vachon.jpeg
What are good cheeses to carve with?
Any of the semi-firm cheeses like Cheddar, Monterey Jack, or Gouda cheeses work well for carving. Parmesan wheels also work well. Soft cheese and Swiss types present a challenge for carving but can be a delicious addition for eating.
What's your favorite design you've done?
I recently did a complex piece for the California Milk Advisory Board that successfully incorporated two 40-pound blocks with a wine and cheese theme. I did three adorable pigs for a Sam’s club opening in Iowa on a 500-pound wheel of cheddar. They had a lot of personality and the people there really loved it. I really love to bring joy to the people who watch me carve. I love creating something that fits the theme of the event and wows the crowd.
Can you eat a cheese carving once it's complete?
Absolutely! Eating the cheese adds to the fun. I wear gloves and keep everything clean. People enjoy snacking on the pieces that come off the sculpture. After the carving is finished it can be cut up and sent home with guests, used in cooking, or donated.
Visit cheesecarver.com to see more of Sarah Nep’s creations.