5 Indian Cheeses You Should Know | The Cheese Professor

Namrata Sundaresan with cheese in Rajasthan photo credit Käse

Often called the land of diversity, India is a country where the climate, culture and dialect change every 50-60 miles you travel. The diversity is also reflected in its cuisine which is known for vibrant flavors, indigenous cooking methods and of course, unique ingredients. Like many of its culinary traditions, India also has deep-rooted dairy traditions that dates back centuries. While dahi (Indian curd or yoghurt) and ghee (clarified butter) have been staples since time immemorial, the tradition of cheese making in India is widely believed to have been introduced by the Portuguese around the 17th century. However, a recent study suggests that cheesemaking in India dates back to the days of the Indus Valley Civilization (3300-1300 BCE).

Paneer

Mention the term Indian cheese and it is not surprising for one to immediately think of paneer, aka Indian cottage cheese which is a highly popular home-made, non-aged, soft cheese that is integral to dishes like paneer paratha (flat bread stuffed with paneer), paneer butter masala (paneer cooked in a rich tomato-based gravy) and paneer pakora (deep fried paneer fritters). But there are several varieties of native Indian cheeses beyond paneer whose preparation is deeply influenced by the regional topography, cultural practices and unique dairy traditions of indigenous communities spread across India.

Chhurpi

Often touted as the world’s hardest cheese, Chhurpi is native to the Himalayan region and is popular in Nepal, Bhutan and Indian states like Sikkim and the mountain regions of West Bengal including Darjeeling and Kalimpong. Traditionally made from the milk of a chauri (a cross between a male yak and a female cow), Chhurpi is known for its dense texture, smoky flavour and long shelf life. It is also made from the milk of cows and yaks and originated as a way to preserve the excess milk in high altitude areas where refrigeration options were limited. “Chhurpi is a staple especially in Nepal’s Illam district where it is an iconic product thanks to its cultural and nutritional value. Traditionally, farmers in Illam would produce chhurpi as a way to preserve excess milk, fermenting and drying it to create a nutrient-rich, portable snack. It is rich in protein, calcium, and beneficial fats, making it suitable for trekking and outdoor activities” says Binay Rawal, Chairman, Base Enterprises Pvt Ltd, Kathmandu.

Chhurpi is prepared by pastoralists who coagulate the milk using agents like microbial or vegetable rennet, vinegar, lemon etc. The solid mass is then separated from the liquid and collected in jute or cotton bags and the excess water is allowed to drain. It is then shaped into cylindrical blocks and pressed under heavy weights to remove any residual water content. This is allowed to ferment for few days after which it is cut into rectangular blocks or cylinders and allowed to dry by the fire which gives them a characteristic smoky flavour. The longer it is dried, the harder and chewier the cheese turns out and if stored well, it can stay up to 20 years!

Given the minimal moisture content, biting into a piece of Chhurpi is definitely an effort and it is often chewed for a long time before it softens with the secretion of saliva. “There is a soft version of the Chhurpi too which is obtained after curdling the milk and draining off the excess water from the solid mass. This is not left to dry or age and is consumed fresh in soups, curries, chutneys and dumplings” says Mansi Jasani, Founder of The Cheese Collective. Read more about Mansi Jasani.

Kalari and Qudam

Another great example of pastoral indigenous cheeses, both kalari and qudam are handcrafted by the Gu”jjars and Bakarwal herder communities native to the Union Territory of Jammu and Kashmir in India. Of the two, Kalari which is also known as the Mozzarella of Kashmir is more popular and known for its stretchy nature. "Both these cheeses reflect the traditions and cultural heritage of the Gujjars and Bakarwal communities who used it as a means to preserve and transport the extra milk they had. Kalari is a cheese made from butter milk and stretched like mozzarella and the final product is like small thick chapati which earns it the moniker of milk chapati in English and ‘Maish krej’ in Kashmiri” says Chris Zandee, Founder and Manager, Himalayan Products. It is prepared from the milk of cows, buffaloes, sheep and goat which is curdled and then beaten vigorously with a plunger like tool made often made of wood available locally. The buttermilk is separated and then heated during which coagulated milk solids are collected, compacted and shaped into rounds by hand before flattening them out like a roti (flat bread).

They are then fresh consumed or dried and eaten later. Fresh kalari is often pan fried or deep fried and consumed with salt, chilli powder and other spices sprinkled on top. When fresh it is rather bland however when dried it is more flavourful and tangier as it takes on some fermentation and house smells. “Kalari bun or kalari kulcha is a classic local dish wherein the kalari is stuffed into freshly baked buns and pan-fried until golden. It is served with green chutney, tomatoes and chopped onions. Modern adaptations have brought Kalari into fusion cuisine, such as using it as a pizza topping, where it adds a local twist to traditional cheese pizza” says Anoop Bahuguna, Chef de Partie, Skyview by Empyrean.

Qudam is similar to Kalari and made when the curd is over soured and Kalari is not possible to make. “It is prepared from the sour curd strain and is pressed into balls. It is not common these days but in the olden times it was even smoked and cheese would be hung out or put in the chimney for about two weeks. These days there is not much demand for Qudam and is usually self-consumed by the makers” adds Zandee.

Chhena

Also spelt chenna, this one is again an indigenous cheese native to the eastern states of West Bengal and Odisha and is made by curdling full fat cow milk. “Chhena is coagulated milk which is made by curdling the milk with food acid (lemon juice or vinegar). As the milk curdles the milk solids are separated from the whey using a strainer and then washed with cold water. The solid mass is then gathered and pressed slightly after which it is ready for use” says Soundarajan Natarajan, Executive Sous Chef, Sheraton Grand Bengaluru Whitefield Hotel and Convention Centre.

While the preparation is similar to paneer, chhena is moister and crumblier in texture as it is not pressed like panner which gives the latter a more firm and dense texture. This acid set cheese is believed to have been first prepared in East India under the Portuguese influence who taught locals the technique of ‘breaking the milk’. “Chhena tastes similar to ricotta while its texture is akin to feta cheese” shares Chef B Visu, Specialty chef, Alto Vino, Marriott Whitefield Bengaluru.

Chhena is widely used in both sweet and savory dishes. “It is a key ingredient in Indian sweets like sandesh, kalakand, rasgulla, rasmalai and rajbhog. It is also versatile enough to be used in gravies and stews” says Rajeev Kumar, Executive Chef, Courtyard by Marriott Bengaluru Hebbal. Chhena Poda whose name literally translates to burnt cheese, is unarguably the most popular dish made from Chhena. Often known as the original cheese cake of India, Chhena poda is a traditional offering in temples as well as during festivities. “It is a rich Indian dessert made by mixing chhena with sugar, cardamom powder, rice flour, ghee and dry fruits. The mixture is then wrapped in sal leaves and baked to give it a distinct flavor,” adds Natarajan.

Want to know more about Indian cheese? Check out our story on Topli Nu Paneer and a story about a shop pioneering modern cheese in India.