Tracey Shepos Cenami Shares the Secrets to a Winning Cheese and Wine Program

Many wineries talk about food and wine, but few are as committed as Kendall-Jackson. The winery estate features 4 acres of organic gardens, innovative dining events including farm-to-table open air dinners, virtual cooking classes, and a robust wine and cheese pairing program. Chef and cheese specialist Tracey Shepos Cenami leads Kendall-Jackson’s wine and cheese programs, which she developed from the ground floor up. We spoke with her to learn more about her passion for cheese and get her tips and advice for wine and cheese professionals.

When did you first get interested in cheese?

I have always love cheese but when I moved to Sonoma County over 20 years ago, I was able to really embrace that love because I was suddenly surrounded by amazing artisan cheesemakers. Some of my favorites include Bohemian Creamery, Pt Reyes Farmstead Cheese, Valley Ford Creamery and Nicasio Cheese Company.

How did you become the “cheese guru” for Jackson Family Wines?

I became the cheese guru by taking something that I was passionate about and creating a program that connected that passion - cheese- with the main thing that my company made. Luckily, cheese and wine go so well together it was an easy sell! It has grown over the years and has allowed me to continue my education and love of great cheese and helped us to sell lots of wine!

I understand you became a cheesemaker, why did you decide to learn how to make artisan cheese?

I wanted to truly understand what I was representing and to be able to speak about the cheeses and cheesemakers with confidence and respect for the craft.

How is cheese used at Jackson Family Wines today?

Our cheese program is one of the busiest and in highest demand—we bring pairings to our local wineries weekly, ship around the country and serve at Kendall-Jackson Wine Estate & Gardens daily. Cheese platters are probably our most requested food item.

What have been your biggest accomplishments since taking over the cheese program?

I am super proud of how the program has grown and that our sales teams use my pairings across the country to aid in selling the wine. What started as a simple plate has become a full fledged program.

What’s your process like for choosing cheeses to serve and pair with wines?

My process is to always start with the wine - it’s what we sell and what our winemakers create and it’s an amazing starting point. My goal is to create pairings that highlight the wines and leave the taster with a memorable experience.

My philosophy is to leave the taster thinking about the wine first – I want to encourage new experiences and create a pairing that is so memorable that the guest wants to share that experience with friends and family and will remember it forever.

What are some of your “go to” cheeses for pairing with wines?

Goat cheese such as Cypress Grove Humboldt Fog or Midnight Moon with sauvignon blanc, like the Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve California Sauvignon Blanc.

Chevre such as Laura Chenel Cabecou or Nicasio Foggy Morning, which isn’t a chèvre but a young cow’s milk cheese with great tang, with rosé, like the Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve California Rosé.

Triple Crème cheeses such as Cowgirl Creamery Mt Tam or Marin French Triple Creme with chardonnay, like the Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay (America’s #1 selling Chardonnay 29 years and counting).

What tips do you have for wineries setting up a cheese program?

Expertise matters- if you truly want to represent a great pairing take the time to hire the right person to help create pairings that represent your brand the best.

Also take the time to create true pairings that your staff can speak to and stand behind—train your staff and give them as much information as possible. They are both the winery and cheese representatives at that point, so set them up for success.

What are the best resources for learning about cheese and designing and implementing a cheese program?

The best resources are your local cheesemakers or cheese shops. Spend the time tasting and asking questions. It’s also important to get the perspective of the winemakers and what they see/ smell/ taste in the wine. This can be invaluable information.

How do you feel about virtual wine and cheese events and tastings?

I love that virtual tastings have become one more way for us to connect and share pairing experiences with guests. Having the opportunity for the winemaker and cheese expert to be on a Zoom together is more likely than both being in a remote location together and offers a very special experience for a guest.