How to Pair Cognac & Cheese
In France, people eat a lot of cheese, but they don’t worry too much about which cheese pairs with what beverage—if you have a baguette and a cutting board, a glass of something, and maybe a salami or some olives, you are good to go.
Here in the States, we aspire to be a bit more intentional with our selections--that’s where ideas like a Gallic-themed Cognac and cheese pairing come from. Honestly, on a blustery night, with a snifter of cognac and a roaring fire, most any cheese is going to be a perfect match. A gooey camembert, a bandaged cheddar, an intricate blue—any one could serve as Mr. Right Now.
In real life, some cheese and cognac duos work better than others. Before we get into the cheese, let’s take a look at why cognac is so special.
In essence, cognac is an eau-de-vie (fruit brandy) made from wine. I did not realize until I visited the vineyard-filled region for which the spirit is named that the vintners make a wine (mainly from the Ugni Blanc grape) specifically to be distilled into cognac. The low-alcohol, high-acid wine goes through a special type of double distillation in copper stills known as charentais before being aged in oaken casks with a custom char and blended by masters to very specific characteristics.
“Cognac is unique in the universe of distillation,” said Allen Katz of the New York Distilling Company in a recent tasting I attended virtually, “the rules and regulations governing it could fill a two-inch-thick book.” Author and cheese writer Tia Keenan, the cheese expert at our virtual tasting, pointed out that “the French understood the significance and were visionary in doing the work to protect that legacy.” They both refer, of course, to the AOC, or Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée, that governs the local production of cognac, Comté, and Cahors, and many other French products.
Like cheese, cognac is an agricultural, artisanal product with traditional roots. Its provenance shines out through the flavor, texture, and aroma of the spirit. Keenan reminded us that both cheese and wine are made with “artisan technique developed over generations.”
The absolute minimum for aging the spirit is two years, but most cognac houses age most of their brandy for longer. Cognac is classified by the age of the youngest eau-de-vie in the blend—VS at 2 years, VSOP at 4 years, and XO at 10 years.
Now on to cheese. Here are some highlights from our virtual cognac and cheese pairings:
VS Cognac with bloomy rinds:
Young cognacs match beautifully with funky young cheeses like camembert and brie. Keenan chose Kunik, a mixed cow and goat milk triple cream from Nettle Meadow Farm in New York State for our VS pairing—a delight. The delicate floral and honey notes of Meukow VS brought out the yeasty, buttery richness of the cheese without overwhelming, plus the lush textures played together beautifully.
VSOP Cognac with mixed milk cheeses:
Keenan emphasized seeking cheeses with depth and complexity when pairing them with cognac. “A good pairing is a reciprocal thing,” she said, and mixed milk cheeses tend to have the “level of complexity to stand up” to the spirits. We enjoyed VSOP cognacs from two different houses—the spicy citrus of Hardy played up the salt and lemon flavors o Vermont Creamery’s Cremont’s rich goat and cow disc, while the more tropical fruitiness of Hennessey sat well with the more restrained flavors of Sappy Ewe, an ash-rinded sheep and cow milk blend also produced by Nettle Meadow.
XO Cognac with alpines and cheddars
Cognacs gain complexity as they age in their charred oak casks. I like to imagine cheeses dreaming about future matches as they quietly mature in their caves. Gruyère, Comte, and bandaged British-style cheddars work well with the bold caramel notes and candied citrus flavors often found in these velvety sippers. Keenan chose Spring Brook Tarentaise, a raw cow from Vermont that showed mustardy, spicy, deep, and nutty when joined with the elegant Park XO.
As temperatures descend, it is worth investing in a bottle or two of cognac to have on hand to make your winter cheese adventures more fun. Come Spring, you can explore Cognac cocktails with the rest of the bottle, and invite your cheese to a different pairing party.